It seems that European Union is in the process of making some important decisions which will undoubtebly have effect on the beauty industry. First one stirred quite a controversy and truly shook up the olfactory community. I am referring to the inmafous Chanel No5 ban. Basically, the entire thing revolves around tree moss and oak mos. Hard to believe that it is so banal? Accordingly to the EU advisory committee these are potentially harmful substances. A total of 100 allergens regularly found in fragrances include these two types of moss which provide a distinctive woody character in Chanel's No.5 and Dior's Miss Dior, Angel by Thierry Mugler and many Guerlain scents.  

Cini se da se Evropska Unija nalazi u sred donosenja nekih veoma bitnih odluka koje ce nesumnjivo imati uticaja na beauty industriju. Prva odluka je izazvala prave kontroverze te doista prodrmala olfaktornu zajednicu. Doticem se zlogasne zabrane Chanela No5. U sustini, sve se vrti oko dvije vrste mahovine. Tesko je povjerovati da je rijec o necemu tako banalnom? Prema savjetodavnom odboru EU, ovdje se radi o potencijalno skodljivim supstancama. Ukupno se 100 alergena redovito nalazi u sastavu parfema i medju njih spadaju te dvije vrste mahovine koje daju specifican drvenasti stih Chanelovoj Petici i Diorovom Miss Dioru, Angelu od Thierry Muglera te mnogim Guerlainovim parfemskim uratcima.


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The EU advisory committee is also requesting that when any of the 100 noted allergens are used they must be detailed on the product's packaging. Manufacturers are only required to state the presence of 26 allergenic substances at the moment so it would be a big step. To me, stating possible allergens on the packaging is not an unreasonable demand and would be useful, especially for those who are at risk of allergens. But I cannot wonder is such a strict ban truly necessary? The committee estimates that 1-3% of people in Europe are allergic/ potentially allergic to ingredients found in perfumes. It is not stated wether they refer to perfumes in general or only these luxury perfumes This percentage is considered as a treat big enough to ban the entire thing. Additionally, the advisory committee has proposed a reduction in the use of 12 specific substances to just 0.01 per cent. These include citral, found in lemon and tangerine oils; coumarin, found in tonka beans; and eugenol, a component of rose oil. 

Savjetodavni odbor EU takodjer zahtijeva da kada god se neki od spomenutih 100 alergena koristi, ta informacija mora biti naglasena na pakovanju proizvoda. Proizvodjaci trenutno imaju obavezu navesti prisustvo samo 26 alergenih supstanci tako da se uistinu radi o velikom iskoraku. Mislim da navodjenje potencijalnih alergena na pakovanju nije nerazuman zahtjev i moglo bi biti od velike koristi, posebno onima za koje postoji rizik od alergija. Medjutim, ne mogu da se ne zapitam da li je tako stroga zabrana stvarno neophodna? Odbor procjenjuje da je 1-3% stanovnika Evrope alergicno/ potencijalno alergicno na spomenute sastojke u parfemima. Nije navedeno da li se to odnosi na parfeme u globalu ili samo na luksuzne parfeme. Ovaj postotak se smatra dovoljno ozbiljnom prijetnjom koja povlaci sa sobom zabranu. Pored toga, odbor je predlozio umanjenje upotrebe specificnih 12 supstanci na samo 0.01%. Tu spadaju citral kojeg nalazimo u uljima limuna i mandarine; kumarin kojeg ima u mahunama tonke i eugenol, komponenta ruzinog ulja.


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It is estimated that hundreds of fragrances would have to be reformulated if the ban was integrated. The ones who would experience the most intensive effects of this ban would be luxury groups (such as LVMH which owns Dior and Guerlain) and small plant growers around the globe. Companies claim that the scents of leading brands would never smell the same, playing the clever sentimental card with the customers I might add. It is also considered that perfume creators would be left with a quite narrow array of olfactory ingredients in the future as well. The LVMH statement that it is essential to preserve Europe's olfactory cultural heritage really made me ponder. Are they exaggerating this entire ordeal and only thinking of how this will affect their profit or is there actually place for true concern?

Procjenjuje se da bi stotine parfema moralo biti reformulisano ako bi se zabrana i sprovela. Oni koji bi najvise osjetili posljedice zabrane su luksuzne korporacije (poput LVMH-a koji posjeduje Dior i Guerlain) te sitni uzgajivaci bilja sirom svijeta. Kompanije tvrde da parfemi vodecih brendova vise nikada ne bi bili isti, pametno igrajuci i na sentimentalnu kartu kupaca (ako mi dopustate tu opasku). Isto tako se smatra da bi tvorci parfema bili ograniceni sa jako uskom postavom olfaktornih sastojaka u buducnosti. Izjava LVMH-a da je neophodno ocuvati evropsko olfaktorno naslijedje me stvarno natjerala na razmisljanje. Da li pretjeruju povodom ovoga, pri tome razmisljajuci najvise o tome kako ce im se odraziti na zaradu ili ima mjesta za stvarnu zabrinutost?


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How yould you feel if you could never again be able to smell Chanel.No5 or Guerlain Shalimar, even Angel by Thierry Mugler? Do you find this ban justified or not? Let me know in the comments below. Meanwhile, the EU comission is expected to figure out and lay out new regulations for the fragrance industry in January 2014. I would say that it is just enough to stock on these cult favourites if they truly mean so much to you. Second EU decision that I truly applaude is the March 2013. deadline for the ban on the sale, within the European Union (EU), of any cosmetics or cosmetic ingredients that have been tested on animals. So any company from any part of the world which wants to sell their products in the EU will have to finally abandon animal testing. PETA ran a very efficient campaign along with its affiliates, backed up with public protests, phone calls and more than 20000 emails. Now that is dedication to a cause. Bravo! I am curious though will this make those companies not willing to give up animal testing turn to markets that still allow such products, such as China?

Kako bi se vi osjecali ako nikada vise ne bi bili u prilici da pomirisete Chanel No.5, Guerlainov Shalimar ili Thierry Muglerov Angel? Da li vi smatrate ovaj potez opravdanim ili ne? Informisite me o svojim stavovima u komentarima ispod ovog posta. U medjuvremenu, od EU odbora se ocekuje  da smisli i iznese nove regulacije za parfemsku industriju u januaru 2014. godine. Misli da to daje sasvim dovoljno vremena da napravite zalihe ovih kultnih ljubimaca ako vam mnogo znace. Druga odluka EU koju srcano pozdravljam jeste rok do marta 2013. po pitanju zabrane koja ce vrijediti unutar EU i kojom se zabranjuje prodaja svake kozmetike ili kozmetickog sastojka testiranog na zivotinjama. Tako da ce u buduce svaka kompanija koja zeli prodavati svoje proizvode u EU napokon morati prekinuti testiranje na zivotinjicama. PETA je sprovela efikasnu kampanju uz podrsku podruznica, potpomognutu javnim protestima, telefonskim pozivima i vise od 20000 mejlova. E to je posvecenost zajednickom cilju. Bravo! Ono oko cega sam znatizeljna jeste da li ce ovo uciniti da se zemlje koje nisu spremne odustati od testiranja na zivotinjama okrenu trzistima koja jos uvijek dopustaju prodaju takvih proizvoda, poput Kine?

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